In Jaunty, it's System, Preferences, Main Menu.

The 176 upgrades are certainly worth working away at, since quite a few will be
related to security, but I wouldn't sweat 9.04. I just moved from 7.10 to 9.04
and hardly noticed the difference.

(I did a fresh install on a virgin hard drive, so I arranged the drive properly.
I'm struggling with recording from the microphone, but Cool Math Games "shisen"
works now...)